Wiring Solution ?

[motor162]

Wondering what the most cost effective solution would be to run HD signal from my 2 Directv HD DVR's (HR-22's) and a Sony Blu-Ray (BDP-S550) to a new Samsung 19" LCD (LN19A450) in the kitchen which is approx. 50'.

The DVR's and Blu-Ray all have HDMI and Component Out as well as Coaxial/Optical Audio Out. The Samsung has HDMI and Component In as well as both Coaxial/Optical audio In.

I currently have HDMI going from both HD DVR's directly to the DVI inputs on my Pioneer Elite Pro 630HD. I have Component going from the Sony Blu-Ray to Component In on a Denon 3802 and then on to the Pioneer Elite.

I have a Wii unit hooked up to the TV/DBS Component In on the Denon. I have Coaxial audio going from the Blu-Ray to the Denon 3802 and Optical from the DVR's to the Denon.

The Denon 3802 only has 2 Component In's and 1 Component out. The Denon does not have any HDMI inputs as it's too old. I hope this isn't too confusing to read. So I'm trying to figure out the best way to get signal to the kitchen with the newer technology.

I've temporarily hooked up the Samsung to my off-air antenna with the original RG6 run from the living room to the kitchen and get nice HD signal.

The new Directv HD DVR's do not have SAT/RF Out any longer which sure made it easier in the past. I was able to hook up my DVR's, VCR, and Antenna to an ABC switch and run the one length of RG6 to the kitchen and watch whatever we wanted.

[MrBoylan]

Wondering what the most cost effective solution would be to run HD signal from my 2 Directv HD DVR's (HR-22's) and a Sony Blu-Ray (BDP-S550) to a new Samsung 19" LCD (LN19A450) in the kitchen which is approx. 50'.

The DVR's and Blu-Ray all have HDMI and Component Out as well as Coaxial/Optical Audio Out. The Samsung has HDMI and Component In as well as both Coaxial/Optical audio In.

Never seen a TV with coax or optical input before, but maybe optical out? You sure about that part?

I currently have HDMI going from both HD DVR's directly to the DVI inputs on my Pioneer Elite Pro 630HD. I have Component going from the Sony Blu-Ray to Component In on a Denon 3802 and then on to the Pioneer Elite.

You should switch over to HDMI/DVI for the Blu-ray player into the main TV instead of component video, if you can. If you're already using all the available DVI inputs on the Pioneer TV, then I would suggest an HDMI switch. You can get a 3-input or 4-input HDMI switch for around $75 or less. The Sony Blu-ray player will not upconvert standard DVD to HD resolution over component video (only over HDMI). Also you're going to need that component output from the Blu-ray player for what I'm about to suggest (below).

I have a Wii unit hooked up to the TV/DBS Component In on the Denon. I have Coaxial audio going from the Blu-Ray to the Denon 3802 and Optical from the DVR's to the Denon.

The Denon 3802 only has 2 Component In's and 1 Component out. The Denon does not have any HDMI inputs as it's too old. I hope this isn't too confusing to read. So I'm trying to figure out the best way to get signal to the kitchen with the newer technology.

50 feet is a long (and expensive) way to run HDMI cable, plus it's really at the outside boundary of what HDMI can even handle without an EQ or amp so HDMI is probably not the best fit. Still it would be nice to be able to get an HD signal to the kitchen TV even though that screen size is not really going to exploit the extra resolution. S-video would be OK but it won't pass anything above 480i resolution so the picture will not be quite as sharp as with component video.

Personally, I'd use component video/analog audio instead for all 3 components. Pick up 3 short lengths of component video/analog audio cable (5 connectors total per cable length) and get yourself a 3-way component video switcher (IR controlled). Then run one long 5 wire strand of component video/analog audio cable from the switch to the kitchen TV.

You'll need to position the component video switcher in a way that the remote can still operate it from the kitchen if that is important to you (but 50 feet is a long way for IR to travel so you might need to get an IR repeater/booster for that.

This way you'll get the DirecTV and Blu-ray signals to your TV at 1080i resolution and DVDs will be sent over at 480p and audio will be stereo (analog) which is all you need for the TV speakers.

Here are a few links for inexpensive cables and a component video switch (As well as an HDMI switch):

• Amazon.com: 5 RCA Component Audio Video Cable, 50 FT: Electronics (includes both component video and stereo audio, 50 feet)
• Amazon.com: Cables Unlimited AUD-1380-06 6 Feet RCA Component Video/Audio Cable: Electronics (also includes both component audio and video - 6 foot length)
• Amazon.com: Cables To Go - 28731 - 3-Play Component Video/Audio Selector (accepts 3 component video and audio inputs, one output, remote-controlled)
• Amazon.com: 5-PORT HDMI Switch with remote - 5X HDMI In, 1 HDMI Out Black: Electronics

A less expensive option would be to go with S-Video/stereo audio. Again this will be limited to 480i resolution but on a 19-inch TV, it may not be that critical. S-Video will be better than composite video in its ability to render color details. You'll still need a video switcher because it's unlikely your TV has three S-Video inputs. And because the 50-foot lengths of S-video/stereo audio cables are pretty cheap (about $15 each) and not too thick, you could actually run three lengths of the long cables and put the video switcher right next to the TV so you'd be able to switch inputs easily, right from the kitchen.

Here are some links for the S-video cables and switches. And by the way, I've used (and in most cases reviewed) all of the switches listed here except the remote control switcher listed below. And I've used Parts Express for tons of cable purchases and never been disappointed in the quality of their cables.

• Parts Express:S-Video A/V Patch Cable 50 ft.
• Parts Express:S-Video A/V Patch Cable 6 ft.
• Parts Express:A/V Selector with Remote and Digital Optical 3-In 1-Out (includes IR remote capability)
• Parts Express:S-Video A/V Selector Switch 4-In 1-Out - (basic A/V switch, no remote control capability)
  

Hope that helps.

-Chris

[motor162]

Thanks for the quick reply. My mistake on the Optical on the TV; it was Out only and no Coaxial Audio at all, just Analog. I'm going blind looking at all of these terminals.

Also the resolution on the Samsung is outstanding with the off-air HD signal. I'll switch the Blu-Ray to a HDMI/DVI cable to the TV for now and just have one of the DVR's use component to the TV instead until I can get a switch.

The single run of Component/Audio cable makes a lot of sense. I was thinking I might have to run 3 lengths of RG6 and some type of Audio cable for the Analog.

Would it make more sense to get an HDMI switch and have the 2 DVR's going to one DVI input on the Pioneer while the other DVI IN handles the Blu-Ray HDMI or is it ok to have one DVR go with Component?

I had also read in the past about trying to have your DVR's and DVD going thru the Receiver and then out to the TV due to sync problems with Audio for some reason, but since there's no HDMI inputs on the Receiver, I would loose the upconverting for the SD DVD's right?

As far as the IR remote goes, it's only 35' line of sight from the Kitchen TV to the Pioneer in the Living Room, so it shouldn't be a problem. The 50' includes the vertical runs inside the wall and across the attic.

I definitely want the best resolution going to the new Samsung, so unless I find a great price on a HDMI cable, I'll go with Component/Audio. That means one of the DVR's has to use Component to the TV.

That's why I was originally thinking of an HDMI Matrix switch that would handle at least 3 input sources (2 DVR's and the Blu-Ray) with 2 separate outputs: 1 to the Pioneer and 1 to the Samsung in Kitchen.

Thanks again for your insight and suggestions, Mike

[MrBoylan]

Thanks for the quick reply. My mistake on the Optical on the TV; it was Out only and no Coaxial Audio at all, just Analog. I'm going blind looking at all of these terminals.

Also the resolution on the Samsung is outstanding with the off-air HD signal. I'll switch the Blu-Ray to a HDMI/DVI cable to the TV for now and just have one of the DVR's use component to the TV instead until I can get a switch.

The single run of Component/Audio cable makes a lot of sense. I was thinking I might have to run 3 lengths of RG6 and some type of Audio cable for the Analog.

Would it make more sense to get an HDMI switch and have the 2 DVR's going to one DVI input on the Pioneer while the other DVI IN handles the Blu-Ray HDMI or is it ok to have one DVR go with Component?

I had also read in the past about trying to have your DVR's and DVD going thru the Receiver and then out to the TV due to sync problems with Audio for some reason, but since there's no HDMI inputs on the Receiver, I would loose the upconverting for the SD DVD's right?

As far as the IR remote goes, it's only 35' line of sight from the Kitchen TV to the Pioneer in the Living Room, so it shouldn't be a problem. The 50' includes the vertical runs inside the wall and across the attic.

I definitely want the best resolution going to the new Samsung, so unless I find a great price on a HDMI cable, I'll go with Component/Audio. That means one of the DVR's has to use Component to the TV.

That's why I was originally thinking of an HDMI Matrix switch that would handle at least 3 input sources (2 DVR's and the Blu-Ray) with 2 separate outputs: 1 to the Pioneer and 1 to the Samsung in Kitchen.

Thanks again for your insight and suggestions, Mike

A Matrix HDMI switch would also work but the good ones are not cheap and the bad ones might not work that well. And I wonder if you would run into any HDCP or HDMI problems having more than one output device? I've always wondered how the EDID handshake (HDMI) is done concurrently to two displays that may support different resolutions/different audio formats. I guess if only one display is active at a time then it shouldn't be a problem.

But you would still have to run a 50 foot HDMI cable and, from what I understand, HDMI signals don't hold up well over 40 feet without an EQ or amp. But I admit I have not tested anything longer than 10 meters myself (which worked fine, BTW). Here's a 50 footer on Amazon for around $35 shipped which seems pretty reasonable and it has gotten good user reviews:

Amazon.com: HDMI M / M Cable, 50 FT / 15 M: Electronics

The additional benefit of a matrix switcher would be that you could use HDMI/DVI for everything on both sets, thereby getting the best quality from Blu-ray, upconverting DVDs and HD DirecTV on both displays. So if you can swing it, go for it and let us know how it turns out.

The only cheap matrix switcher I've seen that I would think is worth trying is this one on monoprice:

For only $60.75 each when QTY 50+ purchased - 4X2 True Matrix HDMI 1.3a Powered Switch w/ Remote Controller (Rev. 3.0) | Auto/Powered HDMI Switch

I use one of their HDMI swtiches and it works fine. This matrix switch is cheap enough to try out ($65) and it may do everything you need if it works as expected.

BTW, all of the links I've included (except the monoprice one) support Big Picture Big Sound - if you order anything via one of the above links, the site gets a small percentage of the sale.

Regards,

-Chris